Spain 38 – Coming home

I left Madrid in the evening heading for Bilbao where I wanted to spend the night before finally driving to Santander to catch the ferry back home to England.

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I reached Bilbao in the evening spending the night at a not so cozy hostel at the outskirts of the city. There were lots of mosquitoes and the place looked and felt as sterile as a prison. I parked the bike a few streets away a little concerned if it was still going to be there the next day.

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But it was and in the morning I continued to Santander. I boarded the ferry and enjoyed the view from the various decks of the ship before falling asleep in my cheap cattle class seat.

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The next day the white cliffs of the coast of England announced our arrival.

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I disembarked the ferry…

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… greeted as it should be by the congested traffic of London’s roads. At least I didn’t have to worry about driving on the wrong side.

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After almost two months my journey through the south western tip of Europe had come to an end. With considerably less tread on my tires, many thousands miles more on the odometer, huge numbers of captured images on my hard drives and an infinite amount of wonderful new memories I parked the bike in front of my flat already wondering where my next trip would lead me to.

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Spain 1 – The race is on

Finally the day has come. Day one of my Spain/Portugal tour.

My plan for day one was to catch the ferry from Plymouth which means a 5 hours ride from London to the port and then traveling to Santander, Spain by ferry, roughly 20 hours. Starting in Santanda I would circle Spain along the coast and ride back home to London through France.

The smart thing to do would have been to get up at 6am. But I didn’t. I had gone to bed late to finish preparations and got up at eight instead. So now my well planed three hours cusshion was already reduced to one hour. Well that’s what the cusshion was there for, right?… That is one hour additional to the one hour that ‘brittany ferries’ want you to be there. So I had two hours left. Still I was a bit worried because there is always something happening on the road and it’s never x hours if the GPS says so. But two hours should be enough, right? So I started packing my things onto the bike, set-up my gopro, checked the bike over one last time and got on my way. I knew that my fuel gauge showed one third left. No matter I thought I will just fill up as soon as I see a petrol station. The first one close to my home was closed. I have never seen it closed before. Unsettelingly I didn’t see another petrol station until I reached the motorway. No matter though, don stress out yet, on the motorway there are service stations at least every 25 miles. Usually that is the case but not if you are still in London. You need to get off the motorway to get to a petrol station. I know that – now. After reaching the M25 I thought well that’s a big one, there will be a service station soon. Nope. Whenever there was a service station on one motorway in reach I had to get onto a different motorway shortly before reaching that service station to follow my GPS rout to reach my destination. Afer having skillfully avoided three service stations with the fuel light flashing and one, two bars left n the gauge I started thinking about fuel economy and starting to calculate how many more miles I could make. Instead of 75mph I rode 50. There, another service station sign. TWENTY-FIFE more miles. ‘Not happening’ I thought. I stated thinking how far I could walk and how much time it would cost me if I was at least close to a service station to get some petrol.
At a certain amount of fuel left a new gauge shows up on the digital dash of the F650GS starting to count the covered miles from zero after having reached the critical level. I was at 9 miles and had five to go to the next station. I had no clue how far I could go after this doom counter had started. 11 miles, off the motorway, 12 miles through the little village, 13 miles, I can see the gas station! I had made it. However now the race was really on. My two hours advantage had shrunk to 35 minutes already taking into account the detour I had taken to get to the nearest petrol station. Of course now also the weather got bad. It started raining and when it rains there is always something happening on the roads. After my quick fuling pit stop I headed back towards Plymouth.

 

Of course traffic started to get slow. 25 minutes buffer left. And still I had 4 of five hours left to drive! Losing a few minutes here, a few minutes there and I would not make it. Lots can happen in 4 hours. I was concerned. Then there were roadworks. Instead of 70mph, 50mph which the GPS had not taken into account. Across then minutes. My buffer was down to 15 minutes. The rain had become so strong that I needed to make a decicion to either risk driving soaked, cold and shaking for four hours which would be unsave or make another pit stop, lose 5 more minutes but continue with warmer coths. I went for the pit stop. Safety first, ATGATT (“All The Gear All The Time”). 10 minutes left. ‘Yep, this is not gonna happen’. Then came Stonehenge. I had still not visited Stonehenge after two years living in the UK but I would have prefered not to see it that day either. Because it meant driving by with snail speed while everybody was trying to get a glimps of it from the road. (Granted it does look really cool). 10 minutes buffer left and still three hours to go. Finally a longer stretch of motorway and a chance to make up some time. I might have been driving a bit faster than I should.. – 15 minutes buffer restored. Fuel was running low again. I had covered qite a distance. Another fuel stop was necessary. This time I found enough petrol stations. 10 minutes left. Another fuel stop. 5 minutes left. At this point it should also be noted that I had no idea if I was going to the right location. I just entered Plymouth Ferry into my GPS in the morning and selected the first option. There were more than one in Plymouth. I calculated every minute, intersection stop. Finally I was in Plymouth and to my surprise had created a 25 minutes cusshion. I saw signs marking a ‘continental ferry’ port. I had no clue if that was a company like my ‘brittany ferry’ that I was looking for or if that was just the place where “the” ferries took of. My ferry was not one that goes between continents though which worried me a little. But the British always speak of going to Europe when they leave their island so maybe that’s why it’s called continental. At that point I thought ‘all or nothing’ anyway and continued to that port. On arrival there was not a single vehicle in any of the 10 lanes lining up towars the ferry port. Good sign.. I proceded to the gate to be greeted by a lady asking me: ‘to Santander?’ – ‘YES!’ – ‘this way please’. I had made it in time.

Getting onboard was easy. I just showed my passport, they printed me my ticket and I was on my way into the bow of the ship. There were easly a hundred bikes tied to the floor already. At least due to being the last motorcyclist to arrive I will be the first to get off.

Next stop,  Santander, Spain.

riding

Accident

So, from day one I have been skeptical of riding a bicycle or motorcycle in London. Mostly because of the taxi drivers who drive like they are alone on the roads (just like in any other city). On that Sunday afternoon I was about to turn left on Regent Street just before Piccadilly a hundred meters short of my destination (MPC). With the left blinker on, at only a few mp/h I was lining up to turn left. Slowly rolling up towards the turn after the green light I got hit by a taxi driver from behind causing me to drop the bike.

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Luckily neither of us was hurt.

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He hit me at my right pannier. The impact force tilted it 45 degrees against the mounting position. I didn’t think that was even possible. It must have been quite a force but the good thing is that I didn’t feel much of the bump because of this buffer effect. Having panniers probably the closest thing you can get on a bike to haven some sort of crumple zone or bumper. Not only do they protect the rider but also the bike from more expensive damage.

I was coming from where the bus is with the cab driver right behind me kind of like in the picture below with the cyclist and the cab behind her.

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The taxi driver claimed it was my fault for dropping the bike after him hitting me. I thought he was joking. He tried to convince me not to report it to my insurance because I would be held responsible for dropping the bike anyway – as a result of his mistake crashing into me.. He hadn’t thought this through despite trying to tell me the same thing fifteen times. Besides the broken right pannier and mount the left side of the bike is all scratched up. But luckily after contacting his insurance the next day they very quickly got back to me saying that they will pay for the repairs thus accepting the cab drivers obvious fault.

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Looks like this was not the first time he had hit something either.

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I also reported the accident to the police the next day (which I found out you have to do within 24 hours anyway). Interestingly my insurance and his insurance both offered me a hire bike free of charge for the time my bike will be at the mechanic. Initially my insurance wanted to pick up the bike and bring it to Birmingham for repairs since they have their headquarters there and their own mechanic. But they agreed to let me bring it to BMW in London to get it fixed which makes it a lot easier for me to keep track of things. After getting an estimate of the repair costs I’ll send them to the cab drivers insurance I hope everything will be sorted out quickly so I can still do my Spain trip.

All in all there wasn’t anything I could have done differently to prevent the crash which is a bit comforting at least. Most people I know who ride bikes/motorcycles in London all have had either a few close calls already or accidents so I guess I can only hope for the best in the future – and maybe try and avoid cabs as best as possible.

Gear Test – Vango Nemesis 200

After getting the sprockets of the bike changed by the dealer and getting the bike checked over I felt safe riding the bike again. Apparently the clicking sound is normal according to the dealer. I will just have to take his word.

Finally I also had all the essential camping gear that I need for my future trips read so I wanted to give it a first test right away.

I rode to a little campsite close to London to stay one night.

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My tent is the Vango Nemesis 200 two persons tent. I am very happy with it. The best things about this tent are that you can put it up with the inner and outer layer simultaniously so you don’t get the inner layer wet in bad weather. Also since it is a geodesic design it stands on its own without any ropes. You can just pick it up as a whole and carry it somewhere else. Of course it can also be tied to the ground. It packs down to 40cm x 20cm and weighs close to 4kg. The hydrostatic head is 5000mm which should be perfectly fine for bad rainy, stormy UK weather.

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It’s got a lot of sotorrage room on both sides. Both of those seperated storage compartments can be folded away and have two openings each. Very handy.

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For somebody my size it is just big enough (6’3). My head and feet just about touch the edges. For two people of the same height I’d recommend the bigger (300/ three person tent) version of the tent.

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For my purposes I am very happy with the tent. It is exactly what I was looking for.

Snowdonia 2 – new headlight

Before leaving for Snowdonia I wanted to get my head light fixed. After taking another closer look and having bought the necessary tools (torx Allen wrenches) I realized that I didn’t actually have to take off the front cover with the glass to access the bulbs like I had assumed:

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Instead there is an easy access lid at he back of the casing. So on the way up to Snowdonia I stopped at Halfords (Forstinger in Austria), got a new bulb and installed it.

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And there was light and it was good … knowing that I could use the high beam for it’s actual purpose again.

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Lands End 7 – On filtering

After having forgotten the time, spending two hours at the beach instead of 20 minutes I got back on the bike and set course for London.

Traffic was bad and we were slowly crawling up the hilly motorway, stopping countless times. As annoying as that was it made me understand something I had been wondering about for quite some time. The reason for filtering on a motorcycle. It’s probably not what you (or I) thought. What filtering really is all about is that you don’t have to stop. It’s not really about getting ahead. Being stuck in a traffic jam on a bike is very different from being stuck in a car. For one you can’t really drive with the clutch alone like with a car so you constantly have to rev (with your right hand) while squeezing the break leaver every other second while balancing the 150 kg motorcycle uphill. So you have all your muscles tensed up for as long as you are in the jam. This is annoying for 5 minutes let alone two hours. It gets exhausting fast. Especially when you have already been riding 800 miles in the past two days. So filtering is not all about speed but more about convenience or rather fatigue. The only problem is that with a bigger bike like mine with panniers you are not that narrow any more so it’s more difficult and often there just is no getting through.

It was getting dark and I was still stuck in traffic in Cornwall with a regular work day just hours away – in London.

While waiting – one driver had a megaphone out the window asking drivers to honk x amount of times for the correct answer number x to a question – I noticed that my bike was casting two shadows onto the car in front of me whose driver had just honked twice giving the correct answer to the question ‘Which is the capital of Norway?’. That’s when I realized what the yellow triangle warning light must have been about! My head light had to be out for me to see the shadows in front of me. After finally getting a chance to exit the motorway I checked the light at a petrol station that had already closed for the night and sure enough only the parking light was on. I didn’t have enough tools with me to get the bulb out or to check if it had just gotten loose so I adjusting the angle of the lights housing instead so I could switch on the high beam and would not blind anybody.

The tools on the F650GS are under the seat so it had to come off:

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This high beam solution worked well and traffic was getting better at this late hour so I continued my journey safely and reached London at around 11pm.

Lands End 6 – Bude

The last stop on the journey, Bude town centre. The weather could not have been any better.

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Gigantic satellite dishes on the far left.

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These cliffs I found particularly impressive. The way they are folded is just incredible. (Click to enlarge.)

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Again not the kind of beach I expected in the UK.

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Lands End 5 – Bude

After reaching Lands End I decided to push on to Bude the same day. That way I wouldn’t have to take on the 500 miles back to London in one go the next day and I could spend a little time exploring Bude.

 

On my way to Bude I noticed an old chapel behind which I found an old tower. (This is only relevant for those of you who have played Age of Empires as you will recognize that this is a wall element that has been built there by mistake.) 

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I reached a little B&B pub at 10pm and finished the day watching “Skyfall” on TV.

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The next day started as British as the previous one had ended, with my first full English breakfast. Bacon and eggs, baked beans, a grilled mushroom and tomato, toast with marmalade, cereal, various juices and tea. Afterwards I cleared my room and got to the bike to go take a look at Bude’s beach which was the reason for coming to this town in the first place.

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Once the bike was set ready to go I started the engine and there it was. A yellow warning triangle on the dash.

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First I thought the warning was related to the oil level and I feared that I would not be able to continue my journey. But after ruling out the oil which was still at MAX I decided to slowly continue my journey to the beach. Since this was Easter Monday there were no mechanic shops open and my phone battery was running out too. Needless to say I was a little concerned. Luckily the owners manual limited the number of possible problems to about thirteen different ones.. Thanks BMW. But I figured as long as the triangle wasn’t red I was going to be OK.

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Exhausted after riding about 500 miles within 24 hours I arrived at Lands End in the afternoon.

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I was a little bit surprised to see how touristy and crowded the place was. There are lots of little restaurants, a movie theatre, even an old helicopter on a pole.

The photos of the cliffs don’t do their size justice. They are absolutely massive and breathtaking.

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The first and the last house on the west coast.

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Looks like Batman has a few emergency exits here.

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In a good way this is not what I imagined the UK would look like.

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Lands End 3 – Eden Project

The weather was supposed to be clear in Cornwall over the Holidays. In the morning it was still cloudy but at least it wasn’t raining. So it was sill good riding weather. While on the road I saw a sign announcing the Eden Project just a few miles off my route. I had heard of this place but didn’t think it would be on my route to Lands End. My schedule was already tight but I didn’t want to miss this opportunity. The Eden Project is a futuristic looking scientific research facility where among many other experiments the most famous one was a completely self sufficiently living group of people in an air locked dome simulating conditions which are expected on a Mars mission. Unfortunately the experiment failed after almost two years but it was very valuable for NASA nonetheless.

 

Today it also houses museums, exhibitions and many other educational installations. I only saw it from the outside though because you can only buy a day ticket (£25) to gain access to the complete area but I didn’t have much time since the whole detour had already offset my schedule too much.

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