Spain 2

The ferry ride was nice and relaxing. Despite the weather on sea being very foggy it was still warm and I was contemplating sleeping on deck.

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I had booked the cheapest ticket which is just a seat like you get on an airplane. But when I saw that I had actually gotten a first row seat with space in front of me I decided to just sleep in my row ­ on – the floor. Most of the people in the room followed my example and made camp on the floor of each row since the seats tickets were not even a third booked unlike the more expensive cabins. I didn’t sleep much but I hadn’t expected I would.
In the morning we were all asked to get to our vehicles and disembark the ship. After a quick and smooth passport check a stream of bikes was swarming away from the port.
The cars had already left and the lorries would still take their sweet time.

Where to go first when you are in Spain for the first time? Right, the petrol station of course. To my surprise it was not self service. But apparently that one Shell station was just an exception.

Finally I went to the nearest playa/beach. (Look how good my Spanish is!) The water was very clean and the beach not crowded which both surprised me to be honest. Somehow I was expecting Adria like beaches.

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I didn’t go for a swim yet but just took a little break. I still hadn’t decided weather to continue clockwise or counter clockwise through Spain. But the heat made that decision easy for me. This is the North and I was already a bit uncomfortable wearing ATGATT. Though it’s only uncomfortable when off the bike. Riding with the stream of air it’s still very nice once you have accepted that this is how it is from now on ;). Since temparatures ar only getting higher especially in the south I decided to cover the south first.

To finish the day I was cruising around through the little roads avoiding the motorways which btw are really a joy to ride because they are in great shape and lead throuh nice valleys and hills. But I wanted to see the little villages. After a few hours I hit the first big city, Bilbao but didn’t want to take the time to stop much because I will get there again when I come back anyway. I just quickly took a look around the Guggenheim Museum and on I went.

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It was getting darker and darker and I didn’t have a campsite yet. I could have gone to a proper campsite paying 30 Euros but I want to do wild camping where possible. So I continued on the little roads checking out all the little paths on the sides and finally at 11pm I found a litle place up a dusty path. Setting up the tent in the darkness was a new experience. I had positioned my bike so that I could illuminate my spot with the headlights but I didn’t want to turn the lights on to avoid attracting all the bugs.

My camp in the morning:

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From here I will go straight to the shouth.

Spain 1 – The race is on

Finally the day has come. Day one of my Spain/Portugal tour.

My plan for day one was to catch the ferry from Plymouth which means a 5 hours ride from London to the port and then traveling to Santander, Spain by ferry, roughly 20 hours. Starting in Santanda I would circle Spain along the coast and ride back home to London through France.

The smart thing to do would have been to get up at 6am. But I didn’t. I had gone to bed late to finish preparations and got up at eight instead. So now my well planed three hours cusshion was already reduced to one hour. Well that’s what the cusshion was there for, right?… That is one hour additional to the one hour that ‘brittany ferries’ want you to be there. So I had two hours left. Still I was a bit worried because there is always something happening on the road and it’s never x hours if the GPS says so. But two hours should be enough, right? So I started packing my things onto the bike, set-up my gopro, checked the bike over one last time and got on my way. I knew that my fuel gauge showed one third left. No matter I thought I will just fill up as soon as I see a petrol station. The first one close to my home was closed. I have never seen it closed before. Unsettelingly I didn’t see another petrol station until I reached the motorway. No matter though, don stress out yet, on the motorway there are service stations at least every 25 miles. Usually that is the case but not if you are still in London. You need to get off the motorway to get to a petrol station. I know that – now. After reaching the M25 I thought well that’s a big one, there will be a service station soon. Nope. Whenever there was a service station on one motorway in reach I had to get onto a different motorway shortly before reaching that service station to follow my GPS rout to reach my destination. Afer having skillfully avoided three service stations with the fuel light flashing and one, two bars left n the gauge I started thinking about fuel economy and starting to calculate how many more miles I could make. Instead of 75mph I rode 50. There, another service station sign. TWENTY-FIFE more miles. ‘Not happening’ I thought. I stated thinking how far I could walk and how much time it would cost me if I was at least close to a service station to get some petrol.
At a certain amount of fuel left a new gauge shows up on the digital dash of the F650GS starting to count the covered miles from zero after having reached the critical level. I was at 9 miles and had five to go to the next station. I had no clue how far I could go after this doom counter had started. 11 miles, off the motorway, 12 miles through the little village, 13 miles, I can see the gas station! I had made it. However now the race was really on. My two hours advantage had shrunk to 35 minutes already taking into account the detour I had taken to get to the nearest petrol station. Of course now also the weather got bad. It started raining and when it rains there is always something happening on the roads. After my quick fuling pit stop I headed back towards Plymouth.

 

Of course traffic started to get slow. 25 minutes buffer left. And still I had 4 of five hours left to drive! Losing a few minutes here, a few minutes there and I would not make it. Lots can happen in 4 hours. I was concerned. Then there were roadworks. Instead of 70mph, 50mph which the GPS had not taken into account. Across then minutes. My buffer was down to 15 minutes. The rain had become so strong that I needed to make a decicion to either risk driving soaked, cold and shaking for four hours which would be unsave or make another pit stop, lose 5 more minutes but continue with warmer coths. I went for the pit stop. Safety first, ATGATT (“All The Gear All The Time”). 10 minutes left. ‘Yep, this is not gonna happen’. Then came Stonehenge. I had still not visited Stonehenge after two years living in the UK but I would have prefered not to see it that day either. Because it meant driving by with snail speed while everybody was trying to get a glimps of it from the road. (Granted it does look really cool). 10 minutes buffer left and still three hours to go. Finally a longer stretch of motorway and a chance to make up some time. I might have been driving a bit faster than I should.. – 15 minutes buffer restored. Fuel was running low again. I had covered qite a distance. Another fuel stop was necessary. This time I found enough petrol stations. 10 minutes left. Another fuel stop. 5 minutes left. At this point it should also be noted that I had no idea if I was going to the right location. I just entered Plymouth Ferry into my GPS in the morning and selected the first option. There were more than one in Plymouth. I calculated every minute, intersection stop. Finally I was in Plymouth and to my surprise had created a 25 minutes cusshion. I saw signs marking a ‘continental ferry’ port. I had no clue if that was a company like my ‘brittany ferry’ that I was looking for or if that was just the place where “the” ferries took of. My ferry was not one that goes between continents though which worried me a little. But the British always speak of going to Europe when they leave their island so maybe that’s why it’s called continental. At that point I thought ‘all or nothing’ anyway and continued to that port. On arrival there was not a single vehicle in any of the 10 lanes lining up towars the ferry port. Good sign.. I proceded to the gate to be greeted by a lady asking me: ‘to Santander?’ – ‘YES!’ – ‘this way please’. I had made it in time.

Getting onboard was easy. I just showed my passport, they printed me my ticket and I was on my way into the bow of the ship. There were easly a hundred bikes tied to the floor already. At least due to being the last motorcyclist to arrive I will be the first to get off.

Next stop,  Santander, Spain.

riding