Spain 4 – Montserrat

The next morning I was woken by cow bells. They were still distant but they had not been there the day before. Still drowsy I noticed them getting louder and louder. Determined to not be surrounded by an angry farmer and his (angry?) cows I packed my things quickly with the aim of finally reaching Barcelona that day. The roads continued to be very well maintained or often brand new.
Along the way I saw great rock formations close to the road. The colour of the rocks had shifted from saturated yellow to an extremely saturated orange. There were many monasteries, castles and other interesting sights close to my rout but I didn’t have the time to make detours. I only wanted to stop for whatever was visible from my rout like this old church.

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It lies on a steep incline which I didn’t think was climbable by a vehicle. Turns out it was and I was going straight up through the tiny village with it’s seemingly random maze like arrangement of little lanes which were really only from one corner of a house to the next.

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On one occasion a dumper came down the steep road that I was just going up. I took my hand off the throttle and hit the front break but I just slid down the little road with the front wheel locked. It was so steep that I had lost all grip. Luckily I kept my balance and the lane was so short that I could slide right onto the next lane behind me to my right.
My schedule was tight so after having reached the highest point accessible by vehicle I got back onto the main road and continued my journey to Barcelona.

Whenever there was a little off road path that looked promising I checked it out.
This was also a precaution in case my plans changed for whatever reason and I had to set up camp.

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Finally I was just one hour away from Barcelona. On hour meant that there were signs on the motorway informing me about a possible detour to Montserrat right next to the motorway. At that point I felt I had enough time to go for an opportunity like that and took the next right. A mile into the road it split and since the main road went left I continued left. I saw many little trails off the road and followed a few. Many of them were leading around the hills revealing a great view of the city of Montserrat.

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That particular path actually turned out to be particularly interesting. It was just lose pebbles and offered almost no grip at all.

On an unsuspecting looking decline the inevitable happened. I had hit the breaks (softly) but it was still too much. I slid, lost my balance, tilted to the left and dropped the bike.

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Riding offroad this is bound to happen and it will happen again, especially with a bike loaded this heavy. That’s why there are engine guards, skidplates and handguards available for offroad capable bikes.
Physically I was completely unaffected by the drop. Not even a strained muscle from jumping off. And the bike? Almost unaffected except more scratches to the left pannier – the one that still hasn’t been swapped during the insurance paid repairs from the taxi driver caused drop. So there is no damage once this element gets swapped. The bike is buillt pretty smart in that it only ever hits one pannier and the footpeg when it goes down. The footpeg is built so well that not even BMW saw a reason to swap it (and earn money by doing so) after the taxi driver drop and this time it also is completely unscratched.

So how you lift up an over 600 pounds heavy bike?
I was 99% sure it wasn’t going to work fully packed but I had to give it the obligatory try.

Nope. Most everything attached to the bike had to come off. I didn’t rush it and took one step at a time.

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After the accessible pannier and the topbox were off I gave it another try but I was still unable to lift it even a little bit. So I took off the rest of the accessible luggage. This time it had to work. Luckily I had been in first gear when I dropped the bike. That way with the engine off the bike can’t start rolling immediately once you push against it to lift it. If you lift a bike that has fallen to it’s right then you can hold the front break leaver to keep the bike from starting to roll away from you backwards in a circular motion but if you lift a bike that has fallen to it’s left then pulling the break leaver is hardly possible while pushing it up because usually you can’t just pick it up like a bicycle on both sides of the handle bar. That’s why it is good to be in gear because then at least the rear wheel won’t move. Unfortunately of course you might not have access to the gear leaver which is on the left side.. This basically means dropping it on the right: you have all possibilities to help yourself, dropping it on the left: well don’t. It will be difficult.

Anyway at that point it was easy and I could lift the bike up, put it on the side stand and inspect the damage.

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My only regret after this drop is that I had placed the GoPro three meters ahead of where I dropped the bike or else it would have been on video.

After getting back on I continued looking for the Montserrat main tourist access location to find out what I could see. However I had obviously taken the wrong turn at the beginning where the road had split so instead I was getting onto another motorway. I quickly got off again and stopped at a gas station. Finally the adrenalin rush wore off and I had to sit down on the curb. The heat didn’t help. I was completely spent once again. I went into the shop and got my first ice cream this year. I also got three bottles of water and went back in again to get two more ice cream cones. The petrol station guy thought I was joking when I asked for more. I devoured them on the spot.

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After this break I went back to where the road had split and this time took the right turn.

At a little path off the road seemed to be a place where hikers started their tours on the mountain. I also went for a hike. There were park rangers posted there with their Jeep advising people that it was recommended not to hike that day because of the intense heat resulting in danger of forest fires. So instead of going for a longer walk I just did a 20 minutes hike. Even that was intense during the heat and I saw charred wood and extinguishing water reservoirs along the way.

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An hour later I was back on the bike and another hour later I finally reached Barcelona. It was getting dark though so I just passed through the center and looked for a nice spot to camp in the outskirts. I found a sandy trail which I gladly took since it was already pitch dark.

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Spain 3 – Heat

The next day after packing my gear I set course for Barcelona. I skipped San Sebastian and the Pyrenees because they would have been a detour and would have taken at least two days to fully appreciate. I will be making another tour through France where I can include the border region.
This day I really started feeling the heat. It was bad. First when the temperature had climbed to around 30 degrees I thought: ‘That’s alright! At a certain speed you get the wind through the sleeves of the jacket and it feels just a tiny bit uncomfortable.’ I was suprised how quickly I got used to 30 degrees after having been sweating at 25 in London (with a ATGATT). 30 was nothing. Then came 34, 35. Water. I needed lots of it. I stopped at a ‘supermercado’ and stocked up my supplies. 4.5 Litres of water and lots of fruits. I am extremely glad I brought a camelback for my water supply. First I thought it might be overkill but it was a big, big relieve. Once I am in the sattel it is exhausting to get off. With the heat and the heavy cloths every step takes three times as long. I would not have beleaved it myself. It makes a huge difference.

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(Thanks for the heads up Fran!) Heading to Barcelona I crossed through Pamplona, where you can drive throug the narrow lanes of the old part of the city.

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In Pamplona though the heat started to get really bad. The dashboard termometer climbed from 36 to 39. At 36 the air starts becomming so warm that when it’s blowing in your face it doesn’t feel good, it makes it more exhausting to breath even at high speeds. The airflow thorugh the jacket was just enough to be able to feel the circulation but it was hot air. Better than noting but not comfortable. Still you can get used to it. At 39 however every step felt like a challenge. Not only I felt the heat. Also my bike. The engine started cutting out. At an intersection when the temperature had just reached 40 the engine just stopped and wouldn’t start again. This happened a few times but luckily it was never at an inconvenient spot. I rolled to a parking space and let the engine cool. Strangely I didn’t see any indication for anything overheating on the dash. After waiting half an hour and spending the time on drinking lots of water and eatig a can of fish (including the salty oil to get some salt back onto my body after sweating so much). I went on always switching the engine off when I had to stop. That worked well. Though when I got back onto the motorway within 20 minutes the engine cut out in sixth gear. I quickly hit the clutch and rolled to the hard shoulder. Luckily so far I have had all motorways almost completely to myself. Also luckily the engine had cut out right before a long downhill stretch of road. I rolled down the hill at over 60mph and right afterwards came an exit to a little dusty path which I comfortably rolled onto and stopped. I was exhausted. I needed the break as badly as the bike. I didn’t even want to get off the bike because it seemed such a big effort. But then sitting in direct sunlight was worse. Also usually you can sit on the bike with the side stand out but since the bike was so heavy it would be dangerously close to  tipping over. After twenty minutes of recovering the bike and I were ready to continue our trip.
The GPS wasn’t though. The heat was too great for my phone. As soon as I put it onto the handlebar mount it just powered off immediately. Also my GoPro camera on the handle bar frequently shut off. So it was back to paper maps and street signs. Luckily being forced to look at the big backup map that I had brought with me I discovered that I was close to a huge lake. The prospect of going for a swim was a heavenly one. My plan of getting to Barcelona in on day was an illusion considering the circumstances. I had barely managed to cover two hours distance of the 5 hours I had scheduled for reaching Barcelona. After a short 10 minute ride I could see the lake. What a sight. It wasn’t only the prospect of actually getting to jump into the refreshing cool water but it actually looked fanyastic too. A bright calm turquoise plane surrounded by yellow sandy rocks and beaches with saturated green trees. I could not have hoped for a more idyllic resting place. Since it was already past five and I had decided I was not going to push on to Barcelona I wanted to make camp at the lake. After passing through a little old village which for me was the first hint of Sergio Leone – wester movie look (which is something i am looking for in Spain) I inspected every little path on the road circling the lake to find a camp site. Doing that cost me my last bit of strength that I had left. I had to climb some rocky terrain and little hills to see if they would make for a good campsite and I had been wearing my full gear throughout trying to save time in case the current one was not a good spot. Finally, the fourth try was successful. I found a little flat patch of grass in a little forest in between the lake and the road. When I returned to my bike after finding my campsite I stared taking off my gear but I could barely stand upright, I had to lean onto my bike and didn’t move a muscle for a few minutes.

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After each little movement I took a break. I was completely exhausted. I deemed it unsafe to go swimming in that condition. Slowly I carried my dry bags and gear too my campsite and started setting up the tent. I almost emptied a 1.5 Litre bottle of water in one go before I started. Every single step felt unnecessary and too much effort.

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Finally, the tent was up and I was ready to go to the lake. I took another half hour break to get my strength back to be able to go for a swim. Stepping into the warm but refreshing water made it all worth it, the whole day.

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I swam for half an hour and enjoyed the solitude and quietness as the sun set.

After washing some of my cloths in the lake I climbed into my tent and fell asleep immediately. All in all it was fantastic day.